Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Final Two Days!

DAYS ELEVEN AND TWELVE – SÓTANO DE LAS HUAHUAS AND HOTEL CASA MARIA ANTONIETA

We were up very early in the morning for our drive to Sótana de las Huahuas. Our goal was to arrive in the dark and begin our long, steep, flashlit climb to this deep sinkhole, which is 60 metres in diameter and 478 metres deep. The plan would allow us to be present at first light for the spectacle of tens of thousands of White-collared Swifts as they gradually rise from their roosts, in swirling masses, and lift off to forage for the day. Green parakeets (huahuas) are also present in numbers.

The ascent is only about one kilometre in length but it’s very steep and the steps are hewn from rough and slippery stone, a challenge in the dark. This may be the reason that Sótano de las Huahuas is much less touristy than Sótano de las Golondrinas (swallows), which is nearby. We made it to the top, huffing and puffing. Peering over the edge is not advised for the acrophobic. It’s quite a sight!

It wasn’t long before the birding action began. I was disappointed to find that my camera couldn’t focus on the swallow spectacle as well as the far edge of the sinkhole but I’ll offer one photo of just a few of the White-collared Swifts.

As we took in the show, I noticed another bird far down below us. I got on it with my binoculars and realized that it was a Peregrine Falcon looking for breakfast! Soon, the Green Parakeets turned up and many perched and preened quite close to our group.

The next sighting was a real treat and something that we hadn’t expected. Up to twenty Military Macaws flew over in pairs and small groups. I’d missed this beautiful species on a past trip to west Mexico and savoured great looks (crappy photos, again) of this lifer. The Military Macaw is endangered and the current wild population is estimated at only 3,000 to 10,000 individuals. They continue to decline in numbers due to habitat loss and illegal collection for the pet trade.

We’d had the lookout completely to ourselves and eventually made our descent. The birding was quite good on the way down. Our highlights included views of Gartered and Collared Trogons, Lineated Woodpecker and Collared Forest-Falcons. A Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl called as did an insistent Northern Emerald-Toucanet. There were other nice sightings, as well, and a few allowed me a photo. This Blue-crowned Motmot is endemic to the region. The image of it from behind is blurry but I want you to see it’s unique, racket-shaped tail.

I saw a few Masked Tityras, a great looking creature, on this tour but they were always pretty much overhead.

At a lower elevation, we found ourselves in a shade-grown coffee plantation that was full of birds. Overall, our morning list tallied 51 species.

Black-throated Green Warbler taking a dip

Alternate name for Sótano de Las Huahuas. Hoya means pot, more or less.

Alas, the time came to return to the vehicles and bid farewell to our wonderful guide, Alejandra, and her friend, Jésus. We’d gone as far northeast as our schedule would allow and we began to double back on our route. We made a roadside lunch stop and arrived later on at the very charming Hotel Casa Maria Antonieta. An hour or so of daylight remained and I poked around the grounds.

The hotel owner was not present for our stay but we were very well cared for by the sisters, Candy and Merīda. A hearty dinner was followed by a few adult beverages on the terrace.

The next morning was to be our last of the tour. We would drive to San Miguel de Allende, a city I know quite well as I’ve led ‘en plein air’ watercolour workshops there for almost twenty years. First, however, Candy offered to lead us on an early hike up the nearby river. It was cool and shady and high cliffs obscured the rising sun.

Candy navigated us past some nasty village dogs but most of them were shy and friendly. At one point, she stopped to pick a handful of hierba santa leaves, which she would use in food preparation.

Following the hike, our last lunch together was taken at a nearby restaurant. We then settled into the drive and looked forward to a few days of unwinding, and pre-flight covid tests, in San Miguel de Allende.

I can’t recommend the magical Sierra Gorda Biosphere enough and, if you go, definitely consider the services of Rodrigo Lopez and Travelian Tours. Everything went without a hitch, our guides were excellent and Rodrigo will always go the extra mile for his guests. A special mention goes to Alejandro Gutierriez, who was great company and an expert driver. Look him up if you’re in San Miguel de Allende! His entertaining walking tours are both fun and educational.

Our group recorded 219 species overall. I didn’t see or hear them all but that’s par for these experiences and I added 27 species to my life list. We ate and slept with local businesses and supported sustainable birding projects. Every dollar we spent stayed in Mexico (except for our flights). We all got along extremely well. Thanks for following! I hoped you enjoyed the tour.

Birding the Sierra Gorda, Mexico – Part Nine

DAY TEN – XILITLA AND HUICHIHUAYÁN
One of the slightly eccentric but creative and pragmatic features of the Hotel Tapasoli is the nests (nidos) that are available as a lower budget alternative to the cabañas. Rodrigo was spotted this morning perched on the edge of his nido.

We’d already had many birdy breakfasts on our tour but this morning’s breakfast was to be memorable. The trees around the terrace were packed with avifauna.

Breakfast was getting cold as I repeatedly left the table to scan from the railing. At last, I tried to settle down but guess what? A flock of thirty or so very noisy birds screeched across the treetops below us. They made another pass or two and we realized that they were Green Parakeets. Then, a wonderful thing happened. The whole flock flew over the terrace and landed in the trees above us. They were initially jumpy but eventually settled in for their own breakfast.

We tore ourselves away from this gorgeous and entertaining display because it was our last morning at Hotel Tapasoli and we had to hit the road. Our destination was Huichihuayán, an area of fields, scrub and forest bordered by green mountains. Alejandra and Jesus awaited us.

As we tried to cross a bridge, birds would appear to detain us. A brilliant Green Kingfisher looked very striking in the scope but wasn’t too cooperative for a photo as it relaxed on a shadowy limb.

Our group spent a lot of time on a trail edged by grass, shrubs and small trees. Early on, a few Melodious Blackbirds looked us over from lofty perches. A Couch’s Kingbird showed very well and obligingly vocalized. A few highlights that were too fast for me to photograph included Buff-bellied Hummingbirds and Canivet’s Emeralds. A Laughing Falcon called in the distance. A Rufous-browed Peppershrike played peekaboo and my photo of a headless bird won’t win any awards.

The trail led us into a forested area along a loop of the river. Birds were a little less plentiful in the denser woods but we still saw some lovely ones like this Squirrel Cuckoo.

As we birded, we passed locals who were walking to or from their mountaintop village, which was not visible from below but it was a long way up. Alejandra told us that about three hundred souls lived up there and they had declined a government offer to build a road to reach them. It takes an hour to make the ascent. My heart rate was up just thinking about it. The village is on the other side of the cleft in the mountains, shown in the following photo.

Our afternoon was very pleasant with lots of shade and level paths. A delicious, late lunch was taken at a freshwater fish restaurant next to a river. A suspension footbridge crossed the water and the restaurant was already decorating for Christmas although some diners may have balked at the choice of decoration next to their lunch or dinner table.

Our next stop was the Hotel San Jose Aquismón in the town of that name. It was dark soon after we checked in and, as I relaxed on the terrace, two Barn Owls sauntered past, one at a time. We drove into town in search of dinner and had a difficult time finding a restaurant. This wasn’t what we were use to, at all! These experiences usually resolve themselves, however, and we soon spotted a small eatery with a narrow terrace overlooking the main square. My chicken with mole sauce was very tasty but I confess to ordering a second piece of chicken.

Main square with pastry vendor under the lamp

Dinner on the terrace
Photo: Aleda O’Connor

I purchased some fresh pastries from a vendor in the square after dinner. We then returned to the hotel and prepared for a very early start. We’d be headed to Sótano De Las Huahuas in the morning for a long, steep climb to the top of a deep limestone sinkhole; home to tens of thousands of White-collared Swifts and other species. More about that amazing experience soon!

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Part Eight

DAY NINE – XILITLA
Do you remember my soaking wet hiking shoes from the ill-advised river crossing two days ago? They never did dry. However, when you have a wonderful, thoughtful guide like Rodrigo Lopez, problems get solved. Before bed the previous evening, Rodrigo knocked on the door and presented me with a bag of rice. I started off Day Nine with dry shoes thanks to this gesture!

Hotel Tapasoli was very comfortable and an early breakfast was arranged for us. A new local guide joined us in the morning. Her name is Alejandra Reyna Contreras and I’d been following her checklists on eBird for the past few months so it was a pleasure to meet her. She brought along a friend, Jésus Antonio Moo Yam, another guide visiting from the city of Campeche in the Yucatan Peninsula. Both were warm and enthusiastic and able to communicate clearly in English. Also, they were excellent birders!

We kicked off the day with a walk on and near the hotel grounds. It didn’t take long to find some lovely birds. This Red-legged Honeycreeper posed in the morning sunshine.

A Black-headed Saltator wasn’t quite as cooperative as you’ll see in the photo below. Heart rates suddenly rose as we enjoyed splendid looks at a lifer Yellow-throated Euphonia. This bird gave us the euphonia hat-trick! We’d already seen Elegants and Scrubs and all were life birds for me. As always, attractive butterflies drew our eyes.

Then, the magic moment arrived! A Montezuma Oropendola was feeding in a leisurely manner in a shady tree. The light wasn’t optimal but I savoured the experience as I watched this large and spectacular creature. This was the bird that most intrigued me when I’d first read about this region. They’re not uncommon but this was my first, long-awaited sighting.

Up in Neblinas the previous day, I’d come across a pair of Band-backed Wrens. They’d been noted as rare for that area by eBird and they were almost impossible to photograph. Today, one showed off in the open for a minute or so. A Spot-breasted Wren also gave us a bit of a performance. Wrens are usually skulkers so I was very pleased to obtain these photos.

Down a steep hill and back up again. On the way back, a distant Gray Hawk was observed. An artist was also noticed, perched up high on the hotel property. Aleda had taken a few hours off to sketch.

Many more species were seen on our walk, including Red-lored Parrots. After a productive start to the day, Alejendra had a new spot for us and a short drive up the road from the hotel took us to an area of pasture shadowed by tall trees. It was very birdy with a good variety of species. Believe it or not, we tallied 57 Social Flycatchers! They’re well named. At one point, I clicked away at movement in a distant tree. That evening, I realized that I’d photographed a Brown-capped Vireo.

We moved off the road to allow cattle to pass. These hills are full of small cattle operations.

Lunch was taken back at the hotel and we gathered ourselves for a new activity that afternoon. Rodrigo had scheduled a guided tour of Las Pozas, the Edward James Sculpture Garden. It’s fascinating place but I won’t go into detail about it here. Click on the link if you’d like to read about it. Meanwhile, I’ll offer a short photo essay.

Rodrigo (seated) and Alejendro (standing)

Las Pozas is a Mexican national treasure and it was the only place we encountered large numbers of tourists, mostly Mexican, on our entire trip. We were herded around in our group for a few hours but it was worth it. Even better, we celebrated with an Edward James Amber or two back at the hotel. It was on tap and it was the tastiest beer I’d had in the Sierra Gorda. I couldn’t overdo it, though. Another great day was in the offing!

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Part Seven

DAY EIGHT – NEBLINAS
We left Hotel Villabilbo early in the morning. Our destination was the village of Neblinas, high up in the cloud forest and, after carefully navigating a winding road along sheer drops, we stopped to bird. Two new birders joined us for the day, brothers Jair and Tito Garay. Both work with Juan Manuel and monitor bird and animal species in the area. Cheerful and excited to have a day of birding with us, they were very good company.

(L to R) Jair, Tito, Norman and Rodrigo
Photo: Aleda O’Connor

The canopy formed by trees on the slope below us was still above our eye level. Viewing was pretty good except for the usual problem of leaves blocking the birds. It didn’t take long for birds to appear and there were some wonderful species; White-crowned Parrot, Masked Tityra, Gray-collared Becard, Brown-capped Vireo, Flame-colored Tanager, Red-throated Ant-Tanager and several Yellow-winged Tanagers all offered great looks but were too quick or well-concealed to be recorded on my camera. I did catch up with a few lovely birds, though.

As I scanned the vast valley below us, I noticed a little bump on a snag. Bat Falcon! This sighting created quite a stir. It was fairly far away, although only a bit below eye level, and it was tough to get a decent photo. As we savoured this bird, someone noticed a second Bat Falcon on a perch near the first. I moved along the road to gain a better vantage point and enjoyed the first bird as it nonchalantly preened and scratched.

Many more species were observed such as an extremely furtive Fan-tailed Warbler. It took us ages to move even a hundred metres or so along our path. We passed a large work crew, hacking at the roadside vegetation. Alejandro had parked the van well ahead of us. When he walked back to the group, he told me about a Montezuma Oropendola that had been perched right over his head for several minutes, a lifer for him! It would have been a lifer for me, too. Well over a year ago, when I first started reading about this region, it was the Montezuma Oropendola that really captured my imagination. I couldn’t wait to see one. On this day, it wasn’t to be but we did see a colony of their dangling nests.

Eventually, it was time to jump in the van and continue on to the village of Neblinas. Rodrigo had told us that the entire population were vaccinated and that they were more concerned about us than we them (our group was all fully vaxxed, as well). Neblinas is very remote and seems timeless. It’s slopes are devoted to forest, pasture and coffee plantations, many of which are shade-grown. I stepped out of the van next to a small shop (tienda) and was amused to see a sign advertising chicken for sale. For details, contact the WhatsApp group. Neblinas may be physically isolated but it’s online!

Lunch turned out to be a memorable occasion. We ate in the home of Don Virginio Gracia Ramos, a grower of organic and shade-grown coffee. The table was laden with steaming gorditas with different meat or cheese fillings. Just the tonic after a morning of exhilarating birding, we proceeded to stuff ourselves.

After lunch, Don Virginio gave us a tour of his operation. It was a tale of ingenuity and very hard work. He only sells his coffee locally and did a booming business from our gang.

Do you see the small object on a wire over Don Virginio’s head? It’s a hummingbird nest although we couldn’t discern the species.

The tour was excellent. The scenery was stunning, accentuated by raking sunshine, and we boarded the van for the descent from this remarkable mountaintop community.

We’d said our farewells to the Garay brothers and birded some more before dropping off Juan Manuel. I have no photographic evidence of them but, at one point, I pished a scrubby spot and up popped two Yellow-faced Grassquits and a Yellow-breasted Chat. Soon, it was time to move on and our next destination was the very unique Hotel Tapasoli, near the town of Xilitla (Hee-leet-lah). We’d just come from three nights at Villabilbo but Hotel Tapasoli looked like a real hobbit town and Bilbo Baggins wouldn’t have been out of place if he’d strolled by. We settled into our hobbit holes and looked forward to dinner and our next day of birding. It was going to be a pretty good one!

Just checking in to see if we were happy with our cabaña

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Part Six

View from the terrace, Hotel Villabilbo, Mexico

DAY SEVEN – JALPAN DE SERRA
Breakfast with a view! We were joined by Juan Manuel Salazar Torres. Juan Manuel has an extensive resume of environmental research and administration. From 2016 to date, he’s been Deputy Director of the Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve and promotes the knowledge of its’ biodiversity through various publications. He would be providing invaluable access for our upcoming visit to the village of Neblinas in the cloud forest. Today, however, he accompanied us as we birded the far side of the Presa Jalpan.

On our way over, we had to pass through the town of Jalpan de Serra. As we approached the outskirts, we spotted several very similar flycatchers perched in bushes and trees on the roadside. It was a very exciting birding moment as Social Flycatchers, Great Kiskadees and Boat-billed Flycatchers were all present, enjoying some group sun-bathing. A Roadside Hawk (that’s the actual name of the bird) kept watch from a distance.

Social Flycatcher (above) and Great Kiskadee (below)

Little did we know that, ten minutes later, we would find quite a few more of these handsome flycatchers on a rural road. That road would happily occupy us for several hours of birding. Occasional clusters of mature trees dotted the grassy, brushy pasture on either side of us. Local dogs kept an eye on us as we scanned for bird activity.
In addition to the flycatchers previously mentioned, we observed Vermilion and Ash-throated Flycatchers as well as a Tropical Kingbird. Many more species were evident, including a pair of diminutive Northern Beardless-Tyrannulets busily engaged in a probable courtship display.

We took our time and strolled up and down the dusty road. I noticed a bright yellow spot in a tree and it turned out be a lifer for me; an Audubon’s Oriole! Unfortunately, it kept it’s distance. A bit later on, an Altamira Oriole put on a bit of a show. I was watching some grazing Inca Doves when I noticed that they had a companion; a Common Ground Dove. We only saw a few of them on our entire tour so they weren’t particularly common for us! A rather nondescript little bird caught our eye as it nibbled at seeds, a female Painted Bunting. We weren’t lucky enough to spot it’s gorgeously gaudy mate but the female had a subtle loveliness of her own.

I hadn’t forgotten about butterflies. They weren’t in abundance but I noticed a few.

Eventually, we were back in the van for a short jaunt to the Presa. A Spotted Sandpiper, lacking it’s summery spots, teetered over its’ reflection.

We birded along the shore of a quiet bay for a while and then moved on to a stream. The only way to cross the stream and keep dry was to walk across a wide pipe. Juan Manuel sauntered across and waited on the other side. The pipe didn’t appeal to the rest of us, laden with thousands of dollars worth of optics and camera gear. One slip into the fast moving water would have been a disaster and the pools were quite deep below the pipe.

I left my boots on and waded across a shallow area. I anticipated the hot Mexican sun and a thorough drying out later on at the hotel (I was wrong). The rest of the group removed their footwear (fortunately there was no broken glass underfoot) and forded the stream. Juan Manuel had promised a shorebird spot on the other side but we never did find it. A stroll along the stream, overhung with trees, brought us to a small flock of (tickable!) Muscovy Ducks but not much else.

Another late lunch was very welcome and we ate just outside of town. The later afternoon offered us a few options. Peter, Aleda and I decided to enjoy a dose of tourism and Rodrigo led us to the main square, graced by the beautiful facade of Mision Santiago Apostol. The Mision is considered by many to be the finest example of the five Franciscan mission churches in the Sierra Gorda. The town also hosts a small but excellent museum and we spent some time enjoying the exhibits.

Two-headed eagle symbolizing the founding cultures of Mexico

That was our day and it was another very fine one. We dined at the Hotel Villabilbo and they fed us in style every evening. All of us were eager to visit the cloud forest the next day and it would not be a disappointment. Stay tuned!

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Part Five

DAY SIX – JALPAN DE SERRA
We’d dropped off Álvaro (we would miss him) for his ride home and checked in to Hotel Villabilbo on the evening of Day Five. The hotel is an attractive conglomeration of rooms and cabañas scattered across a hillside overlooking the Presa Jalpan. The presa is a reservoir/lake created decades ago by damming a river. From above it looks a bit like a tadpole with a very long, wiggly tail. It was still light as we settled in and a steady stream of Cattle Egrets, with a few Snowy Egrets and a Tri-colored Heron, whipped past enroute to their nocturnal roosts.

After an early breakfast on the morning of Day Six, we drove upstream about twenty minutes and arrived at a quiet area along the narrow tail of the tadpole. It offered a mix of mature trees and dense, scrubby brush by a modest dam. The water flowed rapidly in places and collected in calm pools, as well. Cattle had pounded the side of the creek into mud in places. We observed a lot of nice birds and my favourite was another lifer; a male Scrub Euphonia.

For some reason, few of the birds wanted to cooperate with my photographic desires. Still, I managed with a singing Cordilleran Flycatcher and a female Wedge-tailed Sabrewing.

The outing, however, was to be celebrated for butterflies and a few dragonflies. I’ve added names based on initial responses from iNaturalist and may have to update some eventually. First, though, a Rose-bellied Lizard!

And now for the butterflies (brace yourself, Ed)!

Phew! There were even more species present and many of them were stunners. Unfortunately, some of them never seemed to take a break and rest for a minute or two. Here are a few more representatives of the insect world.

We made a few brief stops on our way back to the hotel after birding (butterflying?) well into the afternoon. Aleda had been sketching on the hotel grounds during the morning but joined us for lunch in Jalpan de Serra. Back at the hotel, we relaxed for the little remaining daylight and looked forward to a delicious dinner on the terrace. Birding the rural lands on the far side of the Presa was on the agenda for the next day.

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Part Four

DAY FIVE – PUERTO RODEZNO AND CHUVEJE WATERFALL
It was time to leave the Cabañas Terrazul and, as the van was being loaded, we birded from the front yard. Canopy birds were fairly well seen as we were surrounded by slopes on three sides. A Collared Forest-Falcon called repeatedly from somewhere down in the valley and the Brown-backed Solitaires chimed in, as usual. Greater Pewees, Rose-throated Becards, Hepatic Tanagers and Tropical Parulas were just a few of the many species present. My favourite bird of the early morning had been a lifer the day before; a female Elegant Euphonia. This individual, however, was much more inclined to pose for me.

This was to be our last day with local guide, Álvaro Rojas. Álvaro had been a knowledgeable, enthusiastic and generous guide and we would miss him. Don’t say goodbye to him just yet, however, as he accompanied us to our next birding site, Chuveje Waterfall.

We stopped for a look around by the stream that would eventually lead to the waterfall. As we searched for birds, trouble approached in the form of seven or eight pigs. They betrayed little interest in us as they crossed the stream and wove through our group. I couldn’t help but think about their voracious and omnivorous appetites as they foraged through dense brush. Ground and low-nesting birds beware!

Four Acorn Woodpeckers entertained us as they carried on around a cavity nest.

We started up a gentle slope but left Aleda behind. She came on this trip to sketch as well as bird and seized this opportunity. The mature trees were quite magnificent.

Not far along the path, a pair of wrens in the brush drew our attention. They were Spotted Wrens and they offered several minutes of superb looks. What a treat!

We continued to climb and bird around a bend in the road. The entry gate to the waterfall was just ahead with it’s associated outbuildings, mostly small shops and restaurants. I finally got a reasonable photo or two of a Hutton’s Vireo.

The long trail, a kilometre and a half or so, to the waterfall started just past the gate. As we strolled, we added new birds to our experience. Two that stood out for me were Painted Redstart and Rufous-capped Warbler.

The trail was lovely with agricultural land on our left and the tree-lined, rocky stream down to our right. Little dams had been built with concrete in places to create bathing pools. There were no bathers today and we encountered only a half dozen or so other hikers. We met with more and more huge trees.

It wasn’t particularly birdy in the vicinity of the waterfall but it had been well worth the walk. We allowed ourselves a bit of tourist time.

Other forms of wildlife attracted us as we strolled back along the bank of the stream. We saw several tiny frogs, which iNaturalist has identified as Small-eared Tree Frogs (three different plumages?).

There’s always time for a new butterfly and iNaturalist claims that this beauty is a Crimson Patch. Also new to me was this hive of Long-waisted Honey Wasps.

A tired but content bunch of birders made it back to the van. Another latish lunch beckoned and a Black-crested Titmouse made an appearance off the terrace, which overlooked a ravine and creek. We followed that with a winding, scenic drive to our new digs, Hotel Villabilbo just outside of Jalpan de Serra. More to come and thanks for following!

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Part Three

DAY FOUR – PUERTO DE RODEZNO AND PINAL DE AMOLES
We woke to another lovely, mountain vista from our cabaña, one of the Cabañas Terrazul. Breakfast was prepared for us before we wandered down the road and through the village of Puerto de Rodezno. Ana, who had been helping her mother with our meals, led us on the trails. She’s not a birder but she knows the spots and some of them are in her backyard. As soon as we left the main road for a brushy trail, the birds began to appear. Brown-backed Solitaires sang from high perches. We had good looks at a pair of Rufous-capped Brushfinch but they, like so many others, refused to pose for my camera. A Spotted Towhee sat still for a few minutes. I was able to photograph an Ivory-billed Woodcreeper. Spot-crowned Woodcreepers were plentiful and showed well.

Warblers began to appear, mostly darting about in the thick brush. Wilson’s, Townsend’s and Black-and-whites were abundant but it was the Golden-broweds and Rufous-cappeds that were new to us. Eventually, a Crescent-chested Warbler appeared and, miraculously, rested on a twig for two minutes or so.

Other sightings included Russet Nightingale-Thrush, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Blue Mockingbird, Groove-billed Ani and Rose-throated Becard. Peter spotted a woodpecker and quickly got me on it. It was a Golden-olive and it had not been recorded in this region. One of the attractions of this tour was the under-birded aspect of the area. We had our first new record of this attractive species!

You can’t win them all and I missed on a female Crimson-collared Grosbeak. However, I spotted a small bird on a high perch and took a poor photo of it. It was a female Elegant Euphonia and a lifer! It didn’t take too long to find it’s partner in a clump of mistletoe. Another poor photo but better opportunities lay in the days ahead.

At one point, I looked over my shoulder as our group wandered off and noticed a colourful bird fly into a fairly concealed spot; an Elegant Trogon! Álvaro managed a few ‘record’ photos (all of mine are record photos). There were lots more birds. A Zone-tailed Hawk floated over. A Green Jay blended in with the foliage, as shy as it was stunning.

It was time to stagger back uphill to the cabaña and then return to Pinal de Amoles for lunch and some afternoon birding. Rodrigo took another group photo partway along our climb.

Butterflies were a constant attraction. I photographed them, when possible, and submitted the sightings to iNaturalist.

After lunch, we drove to edge of town in Pinal de Amoles. A rough, dirt road dropped off to our left and we followed it.

A long way down the road, we stopped at a field covered with dense brush, edged by a barbwire fence. There were a few warbler and other species present but the highlight was a flock of at least fifteen gorgeous Golden-browed Warblers. Fortunately, some of our crew are handy bird photographers and got great photos of these beautiful creatures. I managed one acceptable peekaboo image.

A Mexican Jay thought it was far enough away to foil my efforts.

At a bend in the road, with a mix of woods, scrub and pasture, Rodrigo played the song of the Singing Quail, a rather solitary bird more often heard than seen. It was a real thrill when a quail sang back with it’s booming call. We waited for a while, scanning eagerly, but couldn’t pick it out of the landscape. Rodrigo had arranged for a taxi to pick us up in two groups, saving our poor legs for another day. It was quite a surprise when our cabby turned out to be a novice birder!

Naturally, we birded a bit around our lodgings but it was soon to be dark. I did manage a few glimpses of a Gray-breasted Wren and very good looks at a Plumbeous Vireo and a Hermit Warbler before giving in to the lure of the fireplace and a welcome drink or two. It was our second and final night at Cabañas Terrazul. We’d be leaving in the morning but not until we’d enjoyed some great birds from our terrace. More about that in my next post!

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Part Two

DAY THREE – CUATRO PALOS AND PINAL DE AMOLES
We were up early for the drive to Cuatro Palos. Our trip wound us along steep-sided mountain roads with stunning views. Little did we know that some of the best vistas were still to come. As we approached Cuatro Palos, we passed clearings with small farms and ranches and stopped when birds were spotted. Vaux’s Swifts and Black and Turkey Vultures with a few Chihuahuan Ravens soared overhead. Noisy, restless flocks of Mexican Jays, very difficult to photograph, entertained us as did Acorn Woodpeckers, the rodeo clown of woodpecker species.

At last, we arrived in the village. Cuatro Palos (four poles) was named after a large tree with four prominent trunks. It was a meeting place for locals in the past but only the name has endured today. We got out of the van and were met by masked, Covid-conscious biosphere employees. Most of our group took advantage of the baños (bathrooms) and the little shop (tienda) and then a trail guide led us up a very steep slope, as if we weren’t high enough already.

As we climbed, we enjoyed the breath-taking views and the local colour. There are several pinpoints around the pond in the photo below. Those are cows. As we trudged upward, a man herded his flock on a descent to the pond. Wildflowers, still bursting with vitality after the recent rainy season, and the giant asparagus stems of mature agave plants surrounded us.

Cuatro Palos is getting more and more distant

Trees began to line the route of our ascent. With the trees, we began to see more birds but we also were a bit shocked to see something else. Grotesque figures hung from branches everywhere. These were associated with the recent Dia de los Muertos festival (Day of the Dead) and referred to the years of religious strife that began in 1917. Apparently, the puppets were numbered because they were part of a contest. Our trail guide had created one of them so we stuffed the ballot box when we returned to the village later on. Many of the puppets invoked popular culture.

It was quite a climb! Eventually, we made it to the top. Good looks were enjoyed of more Acorn Woodpeckers as well as Yellow-eyed Juncos and a Canyon Towhee that was a long way from a canyon. Note the chestnut-coloured vent on the Canyon Towhee, just like a Gray Catbird.

Several of us are sporting our new sunhats purchased in Bernal

Ruby-crowned Kinglets were common and provided a good ID challenge in the presence of Hutton’s Vireos. We saw several other familiar species; American Robin, Eastern Phoebe, Eastern Bluebird, Orange-crowned Warbler and Blue-gray Gnatcatcher (known as La Perlita, the Little Pearl. What a sweet name!) Less familiar were Hepatic Tanager, Townsend’s Warbler and others. Our trail meandered through a forested area before dropping back down to the village.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera – forever linked

It was time for lunch and we boarded the van for Pinal de Amoles, an old mining town. The architecture (such as the sloping roofs) was introduced by the Cornish miners who arrived in Mexico in the early 1800s. They also brought Cornish pasties to their new home but Mexico may be more grateful for another gift; soccer!!! I was looking forward to a cerveza and a tasty meal. I had no way of knowing that my first lifer of the trip was to be a lunchtime surprise!

Our restaurant, Meson de Barreteros, is behind the monument

Our restaurant was also a small hotel. As we ate, Rodrigo’s sharp ear caught something out back in the courtyard. A wall of gorgeous flowers had attracted a few Blue-throated Mountain-gems (formerly the more prosaically named Blue-throated Hummingbird). We crept along a terrace outside the hotel rooms, as the housekeeping staff watched with curiousity, and soon our cameras were zooming in and out.

It was a lovely sighting but it wasn’t the lifer that I hinted at previously. Rodrigo noticed something else furtively darting about in the thicket of leaves and flowers; a Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer!!! What a beauty and even more special as it would prove to be the only one seen on our entire tour. Note the ‘crossbill’ on this tiny bird.

After lunch, I wandered past shops on the main street and was deflated by the sight of several cages of Brown-backed Solitaires. These birds are inveterate, year-round singers and are trapped and kept for that reason.

There was more driving ahead but our next lodgings were only about thirty minutes outside of Pinal de Amoles. We shared a large well-appointed cabin (Cabañas Terrazul) near the mountain village of Puerto de Rodezno. It was quite cool and we made good use of the fireplace as a local woman and her daughter prepared a hearty dinner for us. The views were terrific again although we soon lost the sun. We couldn’t wait for first light and birding the immediate area in the morning.

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico

I’ve just returned from a wonderful two-week trip to Mexico with Travelian Tours. Travelian is owned and operated by Rodrigo Lopez. I birded the state of Guanajuato with Rodrigo and a small band of Hamilton-area birders from March 31-April 7 of 2019 and it was a very successful experience. Travelian features small groups and a sustainable approach. Local guides and locally-owned accommodations and restaurants are employed whenever possible. The focus of our tour was the Sierra Gorda (the fat mountains) biosphere and adjacent region. The area we visited is more or less within the red circle on the map.

A closer look shows you our route. Our airport transfer took us to Bernal, where we spent our first two nights. Our group was comprised of four birders (beat that!), driver Alejandro, local guide Alvaro Rojas and Rodrigo.

DAY ONE – BERNAL
Bernal is home to the Peña de Bernal, a prominent peak that dominates the town. Bernal is a popular weekend destination for Mexicans and is well served with good hotels and restaurants. We certainly weren’t disappointed with the Hotel Parador Vernal (the V is not a typo). Check out the view from our backyard. The Peña is a rather imposing presence.

The backyard birding wasn’t bad at all. Peter may have been invoking a higher power while scanning for a lifer or two.

Peter scanning in the backyard of our hotel

The variety of orioles on the trip were a pleasure to observe. The hotel grounds hosted Black-backed and Black-venteds. Now’s the time to remind the reader that I’m not much of a bird photographer. I wish I had photos of all of the species we saw.

DAY TWO – BERNAL
We were up early for breakfast. Following that, a short drive took us to a trailhead at the base of the Peña. It was quite cool and the bird activity gradually perked up. The scenery was outstanding.

Our hike was very rewarding in terms of birds and also a treat for amateur botanists, entomologists and lepidopterists. These tiny Pincushion cacti were smaller than a tennis ball.

Our guides believed that this was a Northern Mockingbird nest

Following the trail around the base of the Peña

Alejandro met us with the van at the far end of our walk so we didn’t have to backtrack. We went into town for lunch and a stroll around the centro. The Peña was rarely out of view.

Late afternoon was time to relax. However, Rodrigo had spotted a small pond nearby on the satellite map. A few of us walked over, hopped a stone wall, and found a few birds in a wooded area and pastures by the pond. The pond itself was home to Mexican Mud Turtles and the foliage along the bank was alive with Mexican Silverspots.

We returned to the hotel to freshen up before going into town for a delicious meal. The sun goes down at this time of year just as early as it does in Canada so we settled in and prepared ourselves for another early start. Our first stop on Day Three was to be Cuatro Palos. Stay tuned!