Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico – Part Two

DAY THREE – CUATRO PALOS AND PINAL DE AMOLES
We were up early for the drive to Cuatro Palos. Our trip wound us along steep-sided mountain roads with stunning views. Little did we know that some of the best vistas were still to come. As we approached Cuatro Palos, we passed clearings with small farms and ranches and stopped when birds were spotted. Vaux’s Swifts and Black and Turkey Vultures with a few Chihuahuan Ravens soared overhead. Noisy, restless flocks of Mexican Jays, very difficult to photograph, entertained us as did Acorn Woodpeckers, the rodeo clown of woodpecker species.

At last, we arrived in the village. Cuatro Palos (four poles) was named after a large tree with four prominent trunks. It was a meeting place for locals in the past but only the name has endured today. We got out of the van and were met by masked, Covid-conscious biosphere employees. Most of our group took advantage of the baños (bathrooms) and the little shop (tienda) and then a trail guide led us up a very steep slope, as if we weren’t high enough already.

As we climbed, we enjoyed the breath-taking views and the local colour. There are several pinpoints around the pond in the photo below. Those are cows. As we trudged upward, a man herded his flock on a descent to the pond. Wildflowers, still bursting with vitality after the recent rainy season, and the giant asparagus stems of mature agave plants surrounded us.

Cuatro Palos is getting more and more distant

Trees began to line the route of our ascent. With the trees, we began to see more birds but we also were a bit shocked to see something else. Grotesque figures hung from branches everywhere. These were associated with the recent Dia de los Muertos festival (Day of the Dead) and referred to the years of religious strife that began in 1917. Apparently, the puppets were numbered because they were part of a contest. Our trail guide had created one of them so we stuffed the ballot box when we returned to the village later on. Many of the puppets invoked popular culture.

It was quite a climb! Eventually, we made it to the top. Good looks were enjoyed of more Acorn Woodpeckers as well as Yellow-eyed Juncos and a Canyon Towhee that was a long way from a canyon. Note the chestnut-coloured vent on the Canyon Towhee, just like a Gray Catbird.

Several of us are sporting our new sunhats purchased in Bernal

Ruby-crowned Kinglets were common and provided a good ID challenge in the presence of Hutton’s Vireos. We saw several other familiar species; American Robin, Eastern Phoebe, Eastern Bluebird, Orange-crowned Warbler and Blue-gray Gnatcatcher (known as La Perlita, the Little Pearl. What a sweet name!) Less familiar were Hepatic Tanager, Townsend’s Warbler and others. Our trail meandered through a forested area before dropping back down to the village.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera – forever linked

It was time for lunch and we boarded the van for Pinal de Amoles, an old mining town. The architecture (such as the sloping roofs) was introduced by the Cornish miners who arrived in Mexico in the early 1800s. They also brought Cornish pasties to their new home but Mexico may be more grateful for another gift; soccer!!! I was looking forward to a cerveza and a tasty meal. I had no way of knowing that my first lifer of the trip was to be a lunchtime surprise!

Our restaurant, Meson de Barreteros, is behind the monument

Our restaurant was also a small hotel. As we ate, Rodrigo’s sharp ear caught something out back in the courtyard. A wall of gorgeous flowers had attracted a few Blue-throated Mountain-gems (formerly the more prosaically named Blue-throated Hummingbird). We crept along a terrace outside the hotel rooms, as the housekeeping staff watched with curiousity, and soon our cameras were zooming in and out.

It was a lovely sighting but it wasn’t the lifer that I hinted at previously. Rodrigo noticed something else furtively darting about in the thicket of leaves and flowers; a Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer!!! What a beauty and even more special as it would prove to be the only one seen on our entire tour. Note the ‘crossbill’ on this tiny bird.

After lunch, I wandered past shops on the main street and was deflated by the sight of several cages of Brown-backed Solitaires. These birds are inveterate, year-round singers and are trapped and kept for that reason.

There was more driving ahead but our next lodgings were only about thirty minutes outside of Pinal de Amoles. We shared a large well-appointed cabin (Cabañas Terrazul) near the mountain village of Puerto de Rodezno. It was quite cool and we made good use of the fireplace as a local woman and her daughter prepared a hearty dinner for us. The views were terrific again although we soon lost the sun. We couldn’t wait for first light and birding the immediate area in the morning.

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, Mexico

I’ve just returned from a wonderful two-week trip to Mexico with Travelian Tours. Travelian is owned and operated by Rodrigo Lopez. I birded the state of Guanajuato with Rodrigo and a small band of Hamilton-area birders from March 31-April 7 of 2019 and it was a very successful experience. Travelian features small groups and a sustainable approach. Local guides and locally-owned accommodations and restaurants are employed whenever possible. The focus of our tour was the Sierra Gorda (the fat mountains) biosphere and adjacent region. The area we visited is more or less within the red circle on the map.

A closer look shows you our route. Our airport transfer took us to Bernal, where we spent our first two nights. Our group was comprised of four birders (beat that!), driver Alejandro, local guide Alvaro Rojas and Rodrigo.

DAY ONE – BERNAL
Bernal is home to the Peña de Bernal, a prominent peak that dominates the town. Bernal is a popular weekend destination for Mexicans and is well served with good hotels and restaurants. We certainly weren’t disappointed with the Hotel Parador Vernal (the V is not a typo). Check out the view from our backyard. The Peña is a rather imposing presence.

The backyard birding wasn’t bad at all. Peter may have been invoking a higher power while scanning for a lifer or two.

Peter scanning in the backyard of our hotel

The variety of orioles on the trip were a pleasure to observe. The hotel grounds hosted Black-backed and Black-venteds. Now’s the time to remind the reader that I’m not much of a bird photographer. I wish I had photos of all of the species we saw.

DAY TWO – BERNAL
We were up early for breakfast. Following that, a short drive took us to a trailhead at the base of the Peña. It was quite cool and the bird activity gradually perked up. The scenery was outstanding.

Our hike was very rewarding in terms of birds and also a treat for amateur botanists, entomologists and lepidopterists. These tiny Pincushion cacti were smaller than a tennis ball.

Our guides believed that this was a Northern Mockingbird nest

Following the trail around the base of the Peña

Alejandro met us with the van at the far end of our walk so we didn’t have to backtrack. We went into town for lunch and a stroll around the centro. The Peña was rarely out of view.

Late afternoon was time to relax. However, Rodrigo had spotted a small pond nearby on the satellite map. A few of us walked over, hopped a stone wall, and found a few birds in a wooded area and pastures by the pond. The pond itself was home to Mexican Mud Turtles and the foliage along the bank was alive with Mexican Silverspots.

We returned to the hotel to freshen up before going into town for a delicious meal. The sun goes down at this time of year just as early as it does in Canada so we settled in and prepared ourselves for another early start. Our first stop on Day Three was to be Cuatro Palos. Stay tuned!

Manitoulin Around – Day Five and Three Sewage Lagoons!

DAY FIVE
The bog came through again. We turned the corner out of the driveway this morning and, not far along, I noticed two birds in one of the many dead trees. We’d had strong north winds the night before and these proved to be the only Rusty Blackbirds I saw on the island. Of course, they were high up against an opaque sky.

We’d decided to visit Wikwemigong Unceded Territory, the large reserve that occupies the entire eastern peninsula of the island. There was no rush, however, as there always things to see on Manitoulin Island.

We drove north in the direction of the M’Chigeeng reserve. As we approached the area, Aleda spotted ponds off the road to our left; the M’Chigeeng Sewage Lagoons! My goal, although I may not have mentioned it over breakfast, was to visit three separate sewage lagoons on the day. Only another birder would understand the thrill of such an experience.

I strolled along the grassy berm between three ponds, two parallel smaller ones and a larger one perpendicular to them at the back. I flushed a few sparrows and they would fly a bit and then disappear into the dense foliage; a typical birding experience. A perky Savannah Sparrow picked a perch that was visible to me, though, and I zoomed in for a photo. A Yellow Warbler flirted with me briefly before flying across a pond. Yellow Warbler came up rare on my eBird recording app but I saw at least three of them during the week. Likely, they were lingering a little longer than expected.

Oddly, I had yet to see a Red-winged Blackbird on this trip but fifteen of them obliged, furiously erupting from the reeds, as I stalked the ponds. To my dismay, there were no mudflats or shallow, grassy fringes. This meant no shorebirds. It was time to move on.

As we approached Little Current a sign for McLeans Mountain Lookout drew us onto a rising sideroad. The view of Little Current, the North Channel and the La Cloche Mountains was superb even on a mostly grey day.

Scanning the panorama, my heart rose as I spotted our next stop, the Little Current Sewage Lagoons.

The lagoons were navigable by automobile which was helpful as it began to rain. Once again, there was not much shorebird habitat but we found two species; a single, tiny Least Sandpiper and an incontinence (look it up) of Lesser Yellowlegs.

I also added several new waterfowl species to my trip list; American Black Duck, Redhead, Northern Pintail and Northern Shoveler. The Northern Pintail in the photo is in the company of Mallards and a much smaller Wood Duck.

It wasn’t all about birding. We enjoyed the scenery, stopped to purchase fresh fish and poked around in the odd gift shop. I didn’t see or hear any owls during the week so this carved version of a Snowy Owl had to do.

Eventually, we crossed into Wikwemigong and drove northeast to Prairie Point, noting aspects of the local culture and language along the way. Years ago, I took an Ojibway language class at the Native Centre in Toronto. I can still manage some basic civilities. The meaning of these traffic signs is clear but I enjoyed the challenge of pronouncing the words.

Prairie Point is a lovely and serene spot and the focus of a project intended to protect and hopefully expand the natural grassland and scrub habitat. Song Sparrows skittered about and Palm Warblers pumped their tails. A modest but attractive outdoor gathering and educational complex was under construction. A screech of Herring Gulls watched me warily from the roof.

The day was winding down. On the way home, we had to pass through Manitowaning anyway (sort of) so one more sewage lagoon was on the menu. The access was easy but I hurried up as the driver was starting to come down with a case of one sewage lagoon too many. Fortunately, I glanced ahead as a small chicken-like bird ran across the berm into tall grass. I pointed my binoculars at the spot and an adult male Ring-necked Pheasant stuck it’s head out for a few seconds before going to ground. There may have been more youngsters. These handsome birds were introduced to Ontario for hunting and are not a native species. There are very few populations in the province that have managed to sustain themselves in the wild.

That was it for Day Five. Our new plan was to investigate the west end of the island for the next day or two. We were both intrigued by the descriptions of Misery Bay Provincial Park that we’d read. I’ll leave you with another sighting from the rural sideroads near our cabin, a juvenile Bald Eagle; lady or lord of all it surveys! Thanks for following. Stay tuned for news from the rest of the week!

Birding Article in the Hamilton Spectator

I was very pleased to contribute to an article about birding in these difficult times in the Hamilton Spectator. Thank you to journalist Kathy Renwald and photographer Cathie Coward for their work. Click here to read the article.

Birding Saint Lucia – Final Week!

I’d enjoyed two wonderful days of birding with guides Willow and Vision. Now, it was time to just relax and explore more of the island. Do you believe me? OK then, I always had my binoculars handy and there was a bit of unfinished business; the Saint Lucia Oriole.

Still, it was nice to sleep in and spend a lazy morning in our lovely B’n’B, the Treehouse, situated high over Marigot Bay with a gorgeous view of the Caribbean. Magnificent Frigatebirds soared past and a few Brown Pelicans chugged along, diving occasionally.

The garden birds were a pleasure to watch. As usual, Lesser Antillean Bullfinches were always curious and bold. A small handful of granola spread on the railing drew them in and also attracted visits from a pair of Tropical Mockingbirds. Unfortunately, they were backlit.

I had better luck with photography when I moved down to our little sundeck. Lesser Antillean Bullfinches, Bananaquits and Green-throated Caribs foraged around the garden and the light and the perches were much more generous to my lens.

This Lesser Antillean Whistling Frog hopped on my neck as we came home from dinner one evening. The door of our cabin was only a mosquito net, not exactly soundproof, and this little fellow was just one of the many creatures that contributed to the nocturnal cacophony.

We returned to Pigeon Island one day for lunch and a swim. Here’s a comparison of Carib Grackle and Shiny Cowbird. They hang out around the beach bars and picnic areas.

After a few more nights, we moved to another B’n’B on the Atlantic side of the island. Saint Lucian Anoles munched on diced grapes on our deck and invasive African Giant Snails, up to 8″ long, climbed the walls. They need calcium and we were told that they would leech it from the stucco.

Our final lodging was the Fox Grove Inn on the Atlantic side. It’s a lovely family-run establishment of a dozen or so rooms and apartments and dinner on the terrace was an evening highlight. We also visited the nearby Mamiku Gardens where I’d hoped to find an oriole. I didn’t but found some interesting specimens from the insect world. Note the turquoise tips to the antennae of the Great Southern White.

Shorebirds weren’t plentiful at this time of year but I did manage to find several species, a few at a time.

It was good to be a tourist and soak up the laid-back atmosphere of the island. Some of the common birds had become very familiar.

Lesser Antillean Bullfinch (male) monitoring our lunch

We returned to the west side of the island a few times, visiting the Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens and finding view after view of the famous Pitons.

This particular view of the Pitons is from a high point outside of Soufrière. During our wanderings, we’d run into both Willow and Vision with their latest clients. They both said that this area was the most reliable place on the island for Saint Lucia Oriole. Willow sent me a recording to try. My first attempt was a disaster. It was probably too late in the day and I, almost immediately, inadvertently deleted the recording. My next try was equally unsuccessful but, while vainly seeking the bird, I chatted with a roadside vendor who sells necklaces. He told me that the birds were always at his spot at 7am in the morning. I gently interrogated him and he definitely knew his birds. He also said that Saint Lucia Parrots would be around in the morning.

The next day was our final one on the island and our flight was in the afternoon. My wonderful and extremely patient partner, Aleda, and I left the hotel at 5:15am and drove for over an hour, reaching the Soufrière spot at 6:30am. My friend wasn’t there yet. I watched the wall of foliage and there was some bird activity but they seemed skittish. Eventually, I looked up to my left and saw the source of their unease, perched high above me.

I decided to move and walked down a sideroad a few hundred feet to check out a stand of golden apple trees. The hawk followed me. I was about ready to give up when it flew off. Thus far, I’d refrained from using playback but time was running out so I gave it a shot. After a few minutes, I detected movement in a large tree. You guessed it. A Saint Lucia Oriole, at last!

Minutes later, two of them flew across the road overhead. They performed a few upside-down antics in the shadowy trees and vines before lifting up onto open perches. Naturally, the light was awful but I was a very happy birder, regardless.

I returned to the car, triumphant. Also, my friend had shown up and, as we chatted, a few Saint Lucia Parrots called in the near distance. I didn’t buy a necklace but offered a small cash tip as thanks for his birding advice.

Saint Lucia is a beautiful island with some wonderful birds. Thanks to Aleda, Willow, Vision and my own determination, I was able to see all of the endemics. As a bonus, I wound up with 65 species and finished 2019 as the top eBirder for the calendar year. I’m not unduly competitive but I admit being a bit chuffed because I’ve never been the top eBirder anywhere, anytime, especially for an entire country. Not bad for an experienced intermediate. Thanks for following!

Birding Saint Lucia with Vision (and a few butterflies, too)!

MONDAY
Aleda joined me on our flashlit stroll at 5:30am to meet our guide, Vision, of Saint Lucia Birding and Wildlife Ambassadors. Vision is in his mid-forties and is very warm and personable as well as very knowledgeable about the birds and Saint Lucia in general. I was disappointed to hear that we’d be picking up another couple as I’d booked a private outing and wasn’t informed of the change prior to pickup. However, Dave and Helen from the UK proved to be excellent company and the price was adjusted somewhat at the end of the day.

Vision told us about the island as we drove into the northeast/north central interior, climbing constantly. We stopped at a typical lookout with steep slopes above and below. To date, I’d seen all of the Saint Lucia endemics well with the exception of the Saint Lucia Oriole. Apparently, it’s seen readily by some and never by others; an annoying quality in an endemic bird. Vision tried hard and did his very best but we couldn’t find an oriole despite his efforts and a lot of healthy exercise.

We did see lots of other great birds. Gray Kingbirds are one of the most common birds on the island and they adorn roadside wires everywhere. I was pleased to photograph one on a more natural perch.

We craned our necks, scanning the canopy for mistletoe, in the hopes of seeing Antillean Euphonias. We’d been hearing them frequently but they’re as tiny as they are colourful and they usually stay up pretty high. Finally, I had a good look at a female. I was delighted but couldn’t manage a photo.

A Black-whiskered Vireo, my first of the trip, offered us great looks in the typically poor lighting so I had to settle for this blurry image.

Another new bird for the trip was the House Wren and the Saint Lucia version may be split in the future and officially become an endemic. I’d seen a few Saint Lucia Black Finches on the trip but none had posed until this female rested and preened within range of my lens.

We saw a wonderful variety of species up in the hills with Vision. I was pleased to get more opportunities to photograph Saint Lucia Warblers. Who doesn’t love warblers?

I slowed down the group occasionally to photograph butterflies. I’m a novice when it comes to butterflies so I’ve posted a few on iNaturalist and I’m still hoping for a few to be identified. Anyway, Julia Heliconians were abundant and they are quite lovely. The locals call them Flambos.

These beauties were also fairly numerous and I believe it’s a Caribbean Buckeye.

I’m fairly confident that this next one is a Long-tailed Skipper.

iNaturalist has suggested that this elegant black and white butterfly belongs to the Checkered-Skippers. My online research continues.

Still, no oriole! We decided to carry on and our next stop was Pigeon Island on the northwest coast. We ate lunch at one of the bird-friendly beach bars.

Pigeon Island is actually a peninsula but this smaller rock attracted our attention when we noticed lots of Brown Booby activity. By the way, that’s Martinique in the distance.

Following lunch, we birded the beach down to Gros Islet. We saw good numbers of Royal Terns and a single far off Laughing Gull which came up as rare or out of season on eBird. This digi-scoped photo will have to satisfy the local eBird moderator. I saw only one other gull in our ten day visit but it was a long way out and flying away from me. If you like gulls, early December in Saint Lucia is not prime time.

First of trip birds included Shiny Cowbirds (hanging around the beach bars), Ruddy Turnstones and Semi-palmated Plovers. Vision had one more target for us; although a bittersweet one. A very small flock of House Sparrows, likely arrived from Martinique, has established itself in a church property in Gros Islet. We looked for them but were unsuccessful as they usually find a shady roost in the heat of the afternoon.

Did I mention that we couldn’t find a Saint Lucia Oriole? This is no reflection on the skills and determination of our guide, Vision. He did his utmost but birding is birding. I was very happy with our day and enjoyed getting to know Vision very much. There’s still a week on the island to tell you about and I actually have a few decent photos in store for my next post. Cheers!

Birding Saint Lucia with Willow

SUNDAY
I trudged up our sideroad in the dark for my 5:30am rendezvous with Willow of Saint Lucia Birding and Wildlife Ambassadors. A friend of mine had birded with Adams Toussaint, the owner, last January and recommended him highly. Adams wasn’t free for Sunday or Monday so he placed me in the capable hands of Willow. Willow is in his mid-thirties. He’s passionate about birds and was excellent company.

We drove from the central west side of the island (Caribbean) to the opposing central east coast (Atlantic). Enroute, Willow pulled into a small roadside bakery and emerged with dahls (my spelling), a pastry stuffed with split peas, and saltfish sandwiches. Delicious! Our first stop was outside the village of Mon Repos and our goal was to see the critically endangered White-Breasted Thrasher. This species is endemic to Saint Lucia and neighbouring Martinique. It’s greatest threat is habitat loss. Willow informed me that the current Saint Lucian population is estimated at about 1,500 individuals.

We’d barely walked 100 metres when a small family group of White-breasted Thrashers flew over the trail and offered decent looks in the gloomy light. We decided to return on our way home at the end of the day in the hope of better visibility. By the way, if you locate this trail on your own, be aware that it can host the deadly Fer-de-Lance. Stay on the trail, which is fairly wide, and watch your step.

Our next stop was the Des Cartiers Rainforest Trail. It was a long drive through villages and cultivated countryside up into the mountains. Upon arrival, we were greeted by the ubiquitous Lesser Antillean Bullfinches. It was a long trail and a steady, though comfortable, climb. It wasn’t overly birdy for two miles or so but an occasional feisty land crab challenged us before thinking better of it and yielding the right of way. When we reached the lookout, however, the avian action began.

The endemic Saint Lucia Parrot lives up in the rainforest. It’s no longer legal to hunt them and, apparently, the population is fairly healthy and believed to be growing. We could definitely hear them. Parrots have a way of making themselves heard over great distances. As we scanned across the valley, a parrot would occasionally fly by. Finally, Willow spotted one on a perch. It was all the way across the valley and I had to really zoom in. Can you see it? Centre right.

More and more parrots flew and called although less so when a couple of Broad-winged Hawks cruised by. The slope around the lookout became quite active and we were able to have excellent views of a remarkable variety of species including a few lifers for me. Once again, the light wasn’t great for photography but I managed a few decent efforts. I was completely enamoured with a few lovely Rufous-throated Solitaires.

We were investigated by a curious Gray Trembler, a very cool bird. I hereby submit the worst photo ever of this species.

A pretty Saint Lucia Pewee showed little interest in being recorded for posterity.

Other new trip birds were canopy-loving Pearly-eyed Thrashers and calling but not seen Antillean Euphonias. Finally, we made our way downhill but didn’t stop birding, of course. We saw endemic Saint Lucia Black Finches just off the trail. Suddenly, Willow froze as he’d heard parrots. The parrots weren’t vocalizing. Willow heard bits of discarded food landing on the leaves beside the path. These parrots are vigilant so we crept forward quietly and bent our heads back to scan the canopy. Willow froze again. Two Saint Lucia Parrots were feeding above us. I was able to photograph the more exposed of the pair!

I was feeling very satisfied. I’d now seen all of the Saint Lucia endemics with the exception of the Saint Lucia Oriole and I had another week to go plus I was booked for one more day with a guide. Little did I know what a quest it would be for me to find an oriole.

It was time to enjoy some waders and more open habitats and our next site was the Eau Piquant Pond outside of Vieux Fort. This pond is only accessible with the permission of the owners.

It’s a lovely spot and as the sun beat down we observed Great Blue, Little Blue and Tri-coloured Herons as well as a Great Egret and numerous Snowy Egrets. Pied-billed Grebes were present but, oddly enough, the only species of duck we observed was Blue-winged Teal and there were at least 100 of those. An Osprey and a Belted Kingfisher were added to my trip list. I didn’t see either species anywhere else on the island.

The pond is very close to the airport and we stopped in to check an area of commercial buildings and scrubby yards for Eared Doves. They are only found on the southeast of the island. We saw a few as well as some Barn Swallows. Later in my trip, I bumped into six Eared Doves on a beach nearby; a much more natural setting for a photograph.

Eared Dove at Hewanorra International Airport

We left the airport and proceeded to the Reef Bar on an Atlantic beach near Vieux Fort and enjoyed lunch. Then, we drove up the high hill of Moule á Chique and hiked out past the lighthouse. It didn’t take long to notice Red-billed Tropicbirds as they meandered along the scenic cliffs. They nest on the cliffs below our vantage point but the sheer drop didn’t allow for viewing.

A check for shorebirds on the other side of Vieux Fort was unsuccessful. Willow blamed all of the bathers and picnicking families enjoying their Sunday afternoon. Moule á Chique can be seen in the background.

It was time to turn around and make a second stop at the White-breasted Thrasher spot. I’m absolutely delighted with this photograph of a White-breasted Thrasher. The family group wasn’t overly shy but they stayed about twenty metres back in dense brush. I danced about for several minutes trying to get my camera to focus on this individual, seen through a narrow tunnel of intervening leaves and branches. At last, the image sharpened and I fired away.

My good fortune was extended to a few more birds on the trail. A Saint Lucia Warbler cooperated while I fussed and a patient Lesser Antillean Saltator waited for me to click.

From time to time, a few handsome Scaly-naped Pigeons would crash around overhead in a panic before tearing off. I never managed a photo of these striking birds but saw several over ten days.

Willow dropped me off. He was a great companion and I’d bird with him anytime. However, I was booked for the next morning with one of his associates, Vision. Would a Saint Lucia Oriole be on the menu? Stay tuned!

Birding Saint Lucia – First Three Days!

Saint Lucia is a small Caribbean island in the Lesser Antilles. It’s a popular destination for tourists and has a mountainous terrain highlighted by the two dramatic Pitons, Gros and Petit. The islanders speak English and a Creole patois. Saint Lucia is home to six endemic species of bird although, unfortunately, Semper’s Warbler is believed to be extinct. My goal was to see the remaining five endemics as well as several Lesser Antillean endemics and rarities. This was not a dedicated birding trip. My wife, Aleda, enjoys some casual birding but is far from a rabid keener.

We arrived late in the afternoon on Thursday, November 28. Our BnB lodgings were based high up on the hill of Moule á Chique and gave us a wonderful view of the Vieux Fort harbour and the distant Pitons.

FRIDAY
Magnificent Frigatebirds soared over the port as we enjoyed breakfast on the shady deck on Friday morning.

Our host’s garden offered plenty of bird activity, as well. I had a glimpse of my first endemic, a Saint Lucia Warbler. This pretty bird would prove to be fairly common on the island and I’ll show a few photos in a later post. A pair of lovely Zenaida Doves posed on a utilitarian perch.

This female Carib Grackle visited the tap for a drink.

I scanned the lower slope and noticed a Eurasian Collared Dove on a wire.

A Common Ground Dove foraged quietly in and out of view. Also present were four of the most ubiquitous island species; Gray Kingbird, Bananaquit, Antillean Crested Hummingbird and Lesser Antillean Bullfinch. Scaly-breasted Thrashers proved to be quite common and also were very responsive to pishing. This bird checked us out from a distance.

After breakfast, we explored the south and southwest coast. We stopped in at the fishing villages of Laborie and Choiseul. Both were picturesque and at Choiseul I observed a Little Blue Heron, a Black-crowned Night-Heron and an American Kestrel. As we wandered the coast, we saw Gray Kingbirds and Cattle Egrets frequently. Our first Broad-winged Hawk soared over a valley.

Later in the day, we drove back to Vieux Fort and to the top of Moule á Chique to see the second highest lighthouse in the world. In the vicinity, I found a Tropical Mockingbird as well as a mixed flock of swallows. All I could identify for sure were Barns and Banks. Overall, I didn’t see a lot of swallows on our trip.

SATURDAY
Breakfast on our deck offered a few new birds, a Caribbean Elaenia and Black-faced Grassquits. We left Vieux Fort and visited Balenbouche Estate, a former plantation which is still a working agricultural concern that offers accommodations in quaint cabins. Enroute, we encountered seven loafing Royal Terns just outside of Vieux Fort. I zoomed in on four of them.

We paid a small entrance fee to our gracious host at the Estate and wandered the trails. It was very birdy and I added three striking Scaly-naped Pigeons, Purple-throated Carib and Green Heron to my trip list. My highlight, however, was Mangrove Cuckoo, a lifer and a wonderful experience. There were two of them, a likely pair, and one of these attractive birds was very curious about me. I spent ten minutes within twenty feet of it and I was tingling with excitement. You’ll note that this blog is not dependent on excellent bird photography but the Mangrove Cuckoo cooperated and rewarded my feeble efforts.

I checked eBird every day and had noticed several Mangrove Cuckoo sightings around the island. This surprised me as I’d looked for them elsewhere and always come up empty. Saint Lucia seems to host a very confiding version of this lovely bird. I was able to observe three or four more over the course of our visit.

Meanwhile, Aleda sketched by this secluded beach.

We continued up the coast and lunched in Soufrière. Our next stop was our new BnB outside of Marigot Bay. I was booked with Saint Lucia Birding and Wildlife Ambassadors for Sunday and my guide, Willow, would pick me up at 5:30am. More about that in my next post!

Birding the Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve!

with RODRIGO LÓPEZ of TRAVELIAN TOURS
Querétaro, Mexico
March 22-30, 2020

OropendolaM WhiteWT

***Click here for full details including itinerary, target species list and pricing! A $CAD100 discount is offered to members of the Ontario Field Ornithologists, Hamilton Naturalists’ Club and the Toronto Ornithological Club for the Sierra Gorda birding tour.

The Sierra Gorda de Querétaro Biosphere Reserve is the most ecologically diverse protected area in Mexico! Experience this small group insider’s tour of one of Mexico’s natural treasures with Travelian’s expert guides, Rodrigo López and Alejandro Arellano!

From the oldest semi-desert in the country, enduring for around 65 million years, to the coniferous forests inhabiting the highest ridges of the mountains, life flourishes here. The extraordinary richness in its oak forests, tropical forests, riparian forests along the rivers, and the ever shady cloud forests are all part of our rich natural heritage. All of this houses 2,310 species of vascular plants, 110 mammal species including the majestic jaguar, 134 reptile and amphibian species, one third of the Mexican butterflies with 800 species, and amongst them a trove of 343 birds that include several endemic and highly threatened species.

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Special Optional Extension!!!
BIRDS AND CULTURE OF SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE
March 30-April 2, 2020

Friday
Enjoy a relaxing mix of birding and sightseeing in beautiful and safe San Miguel de Allende. We’ll bird the riparian habitat of La Huerta and the famous El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Gardens. Parque Benito Juarez is also worth a quick visit before dinner. The wonderful restaurants and colourful markets of SMA will enhance your experience with this very attractive extension.

Guanajuato Birding Adventure – Las Fuentes!

APRIL 6
Alas, Saturday was to be our last day of birding. It’d been a great week in good company and was very well-led by Rodrigo Lopez of Travelian Tours. Our destination was Las Fuentes, a deciduous and subtropical scrub forest in the Bajio region of Guanajuato. First of all, we had a stop to make in order to pick up our young ranger, Edith Gutierrez.

As we drove slowly through the village of Juventino Rosas, we watched for birds and soon stopped the vehicle to walk. A Black-throated Gray Warbler was very active and difficult to track down for a photo but Joanne was successful.

Black-throated Gray Warbler
Photo courtesy of Joanne Redwood

On the dusty road ahead, we spotted our first Common Ground-Dove of the week. We studied it in comparison with the omnipresent Inca Doves.

A Greater Roadrunner called repeatedly. We’d already seen one earlier in the week, which was good as this bird refused to show itself although it came very close in the dense scrub. I’ll take the liberty of showing you a photo from south Texas a few years ago.

Truth be told, I had a terrible day with my camera so I’ll supplement our sightings at Las Fuentes with some photos from other trips to San Miguel de Allende and a few donations from our participants.

Golden-fronted Woodpecker
San Miguel de Allende

Gray Silky-flycatcher
San Miguel de Allende

Black-headed Grosbeak
Photo courtesy of Joanne Redwood

Dusky Flycatcher
Photo courtesy of Joanne Redwood

Lark Sparrow
Photo courtesy of Joanne Redwood

Bob, our warbler addict, wandered off at one point. Sometimes, when you drift away from the group, you miss a good bird. Not Bob! He found a cooperative Yellow-breasted Chat. Unfortunately, Bob was having trouble with his camera and was disappointed in the quality of his photograph.

Yellow-breasted Chat
Photo courtesy of Bob Bell

As we headed back to the van, I quietly stepped onto a small bridge. There was a pond on one side and thick trees on the other. My birding ‘spidey sense’ tingled. I froze and realized that I was face to face with this young Cooper’s Hawk, which glowed almost white in a shaft of sunlight.

I can’t wrap up our Guanajuato Birding Adventure without a mention of Manuel ‘Manny’ Ramirez, our driver. Cheerful, careful and courteous, Manny also spotted several species for us over the course of the week and was an excellent birding companion.

Rodrigo took this group photo before we boarded the van and returned to our hotel. I’m not sure where Anne and Robert were hiding when this photo was taken but they can be seen in our group shot from Peña Alta in an earlier post. Norman is also absent as he was unable to join us for our final day. We all looked forward to a relaxing afternoon, which was followed by our Farewell Dinner on the rooftop patio of El Pegaso in the heart of San Miguel de Allende.

Most of our group tallied 50 or 60+ lifers in Guanajuato and every birder loves to see new life birds. However, a special element of our experience was Rodrigo’s support of the local initiatives for sustainable birding and related environmental practices. It was a pleasure to meet and bird with our Mexican friends.

Did I mention that most of our group are members of the Hamilton Naturalists’ Club, which is celebrating it’s 100th year? The 2019 Ontario Field Ornithologists convention is taking place in Hamilton this September. Rodrigo will be visiting Hamilton and attending the convention. Make sure you say hello, if you’re there.

Are you interested in birding Mexico with Rodrigo, Manny and myself? Plans are in the works for next March and our destination will be the Sierra Gorda de Queretaro Biosphere Reserve. This region is fairly close to San Miguel de Allende and features many different species that we didn’t find in Guanajuato. We’ll bird the area for a week and there will be a three or four day San Miguel de Allende extension. The extension will be comprised of birding and enjoying the sights, markets and restaurants of this beautiful and safe town. Details will be available soon! Thanks for following along with our adventure and please leave a comment.